The Fadiman Protocol: How to Microdose Safely

Microdosing

The most widely used microdosing schedule in the world — simple, effective, and designed to prevent tolerance from building while giving you structure to track results.

Who is James Fadiman?

An American psychologist and researcher who has studied psychedelics since the 1960s. Fadiman developed his microdosing protocol based on data collected from hundreds of self-reporting participants across multiple years. His book The Psychedelic Explorer's Guide remains a key reference in the field.

The Protocol

Day 1

Microdose

Day 2

Rest

Day 3

Rest

Day 4

Microdose

Day 5

Rest

Day 6

Rest

Day 7

Microdose

...and so on for 4–8 weeks

One dose every three days. Two rest days between each dose.

Why Three Days? Why Not Every Day?

Tolerance

Psilocybin builds tolerance quickly. If you take it on consecutive days, you need a higher dose to feel the same effect by day three. The rest days reset your sensitivity, keeping each microdose effective throughout the protocol.

The afterglow (Day 2)

Day 2 — the day after a microdose — is often described as the most productive day of the cycle. The effects carry over subtly: clearer thinking, better mood, slightly enhanced creativity. Rest days aren't empty — they're part of how the protocol works.

Observation (Day 3)

Day 3 is your clearest baseline — no active dose, no afterglow. Comparing how you feel on day 3 vs. day 1 helps you assess whether the protocol is having any effect at all.

What Dose to Use

For fresh magic truffles — the most practical format for microdosing.

Dose
Starting dose 0.5g fresh truffle
Standard microdose 0.5–1g fresh truffle
Upper limit 1.5g (beyond this, effects become noticeable)

Start at 0.5g for your first cycle. If you feel nothing over 2–3 weeks, increase to 1g. If you feel clearly altered, reduce the dose. The goal is sub-perceptual — you should be able to go about your normal day without anyone knowing you've taken anything.

How to Track Progress

Track daily

Mood (1–10)
Energy (1–10)
Focus (1–10)
Sleep quality
Notable observations

Before you start: record a week of baseline entries without microdosing. This gives you something real to compare against. What to look for: not dramatic changes on individual days — patterns over weeks. Fewer low-mood days, more productive mornings, less reactivity to stress.

Duration and Breaks

Protocol length

4–8 weeks is the standard Fadiman recommendation. Long enough to establish patterns; short enough to avoid habituation.

After the protocol

Take a break of at least 2–4 weeks before starting another cycle. Restores full sensitivity and gives time to integrate what you noticed.

Common Mistakes

Dosing too high. The most frequent error. If you can feel it, it's not a microdose. Start low.

Skipping the journal. Without tracking, it's very hard to assess whether anything is actually changing. Memory is unreliable over weeks.

Expecting immediate results. Effects tend to emerge gradually over weeks — not on the first dose day.

Dosing every day. This is not the Fadiman Protocol and it will build tolerance quickly. Rest days are mandatory.

Frequently Asked Questions

Some people adjust the protocol to fit their week — for example, dosing on Monday and Thursday only, regardless of the 3-day cycle. This is slightly less precise but far more practical for people with demanding work weeks. The key principle (rest days between doses) still applies.

Yes. Psilocybin is not physically addictive. You can stop the protocol at any point without withdrawal effects.

No. Other protocols exist — the Stamets Stack (4 days on, 3 days off, combined with lion's mane and niacin) and the Intuitive Protocol (dose when you feel it's right) are both used by experienced microdosers. The Fadiman Protocol is the most structured and well-documented — a good starting point.

When you've completed your intended cycle. Or earlier, if you're not noticing any effects after 4 weeks of careful tracking, or if you're experiencing unwanted effects like increased anxiety or disrupted sleep.

Ready to Follow the Protocol?

Browse microdosing truffles in measured doses — designed for consistency and precision.

Microdosing The Fadiman Protocol: How to Microdose Safely The most widely used microdosing schedule in the world — simple, effective, and designed to prevent tolerance from building while giving you structure to track results. Who is James Fadiman? An American psychologist and researcher who has studied psychedelics since the 1960s. Fadiman developed his microdosing protocol […]

Microdosing

Microdosing has gone from fringe practice to mainstream conversation in a short time. But the information around it ranges from rigorous to wildly exaggerated. This guide gives you a practical, honest foundation.

What Is Microdosing?

Microdosing means taking a very small dose of a psychedelic substance — typically one-tenth to one-twentieth of a full dose — on a regular schedule. The goal is sub-perceptual effects: small enough that you don't feel clearly "high," but potentially enough to notice subtle shifts in how you think, feel, or work.

Typical microdose with psilocybin

0.5–1g

Fresh magic truffles

0.1–0.3g

Dried psilocybin mushrooms

What the Research Actually Says

What research suggests

  • Improved mood and reduced symptoms of depression and anxiety in microdosing populations
  • Increased creativity, open-mindedness, and flow states in some participants
  • Growing body of observational and self-report data supporting real effects

What research doesn't confirm

  • Most studies are observational — not controlled trials
  • Placebo effects are significant and difficult to control for
  • Individual responses vary enormously — some report no benefit or negative effects

The honest position: microdosing works well for many people, isn't a cure-all, and the science is still catching up with the practice. Go in with realistic expectations, not miracle claims.

How to Start

1

Get the right product

The most practical format for beginners is fresh magic truffles — they come in measured doses, are legal in the Netherlands, and have consistent potency that makes it easy to establish a reliable microdose.

2

Choose a protocol

A protocol is a schedule for when you take a microdose and when you rest. The most widely used is the Fadiman Protocol — one day on, two days off, repeated over 4–8 weeks. → The Fadiman Protocol Explained

3

Set a baseline

Before you start, spend a week tracking your mood, sleep, energy, and focus without microdosing. A simple daily note is enough. This baseline helps you notice whether anything actually changes once you begin.

4

Start low

Begin at 0.5g fresh truffle. You can always increase slightly after a few cycles if you feel nothing. Starting too high risks effects becoming noticeable in ways that interfere with your day.

5

Track and adjust

Keep a brief daily journal during your microdosing period. Note how you feel on dose days vs. rest days. Look for patterns over weeks, not days.

What to Expect

On dose days

Most people feel little or nothing at a proper microdose. Some report a subtle lift in mood, slightly increased focus, or a sense of being more present. If you feel clearly altered, your dose is too high.

On rest days

Rest days are where many people notice the effects most clearly. A slightly better mood, more patience, more creative thinking. The contrast between dose and rest days can be informative.

Over weeks

Look for patterns — fewer low-mood days, more productive weeks, easier emotional regulation. Not dramatic day-to-day shifts.

If nothing happens

This is common and normal. Try for a full 4-week protocol before concluding it doesn't work for you.

What microdosing is not

  • A substitute for therapy, medication, or professional support for serious mental health conditions
  • A productivity hack with guaranteed results
  • Risk-free — some people experience increased anxiety or disrupted sleep at doses too high
  • Legal everywhere in Europe — verify the legal status in your country

Frequently Asked Questions

Most protocols run for 4–8 weeks, followed by a break of equal length. This prevents tolerance from building and gives you time to integrate what you've noticed.

At a proper microdose, no. If you feel clearly altered — unable to concentrate, visually enhanced, emotionally overwhelmed — your dose is too high. Reduce it.

Psilocybin has a low toxicity profile and is not physically addictive. The main risks are psychological — particularly for people with a personal or family history of psychosis or bipolar disorder, for whom psychedelics are not recommended.

Track your baseline before starting and keep a daily journal. Look for patterns over weeks — not dramatic changes on individual days. If you need to ask whether it's working after 4–6 weeks of tracking, it may not be producing meaningful effects for you.

Ready to Start Microdosing?

Browse microdosing truffles — consistent potency, legal in the Netherlands, shipped across Europe.

Microdosing Beginner’s Guide to Microdosing Psilocybin Microdosing has gone from fringe practice to mainstream conversation in a short time. But the information around it ranges from rigorous to wildly exaggerated. This guide gives you a practical, honest foundation. What Is Microdosing? Microdosing means taking a very small dose of a psychedelic substance — typically one-tenth […]

Magic Truffles

Dosage is the most important decision you'll make with magic truffles. Too little and the experience is barely noticeable. Too much and it can be overwhelming — especially for a first experience.

Before You Read the Numbers

1.
Set and setting. Your mindset going in and the environment around you shape the experience more than the dose. A calm, comfortable space and a positive, open state of mind make a significant difference.
2.
Your personal sensitivity. Body weight plays a minor role. Experience with psychedelics, current mental state, and individual neurochemistry play a much larger one.
3.
Start lower than you think you need. You can always take more next time. You can't take less once you've eaten them.

Dosage Levels

All doses are for fresh magic truffles — which is how Cloud920 sells them. Fresh truffles are 70–80% water by weight.

0.5–1g

Microdose

Sub-perceptual. No visual effects. Subtle mood lift, focus, openness. Used on a regular schedule for cumulative benefits.

2–5g

Low

Mild effects. Light mood shift, enhanced senses, some visual enhancement. Good for first-timers who want a gentle introduction.

5–10g

Moderate

Clear psychedelic effects. Visual changes, emotional depth, altered sense of time. A full experience for most people.

10–15g

High

Strong effects. Significant visual and perceptual changes, deep introspection. For experienced users only.

15g+

Very High

Intense experience. Not recommended without significant prior experience and a trusted, sober sitter present.

First Time? Start Here

Recommended first dose: 5–7g fresh truffles

This range produces a genuine psychedelic experience for most people without being overwhelming. You'll feel a clear shift in perception and mood, some visual enhancement, and a sense of emotional openness — without losing your bearings.

What to do

  • Eat on an empty stomach (3–4 hours without food) for faster, more consistent onset
  • Chew thoroughly — truffles release more psilocybin when broken down
  • Set aside 6–8 hours. Effects typically last 4–6 hours, plus time to come down
  • Have a trusted, sober person nearby if it's your first time
  • Don't mix with alcohol or other substances

Onset and Duration

Phase Timing
Onset 30–60 minutes after eating
Peak 2–3 hours in
Come down 4–5 hours in
Full return to baseline 6–8 hours

Don't redose because "nothing is happening" before the 90-minute mark — a common mistake that leads to taking too much.

How to Eat Magic Truffles

Chew directly

The most straightforward method. Chew thoroughly — the smaller the particles, the more psilocybin is released. Earthy and bitter taste.

Make a tea

Chop and steep in hot (not boiling) water for 15–20 minutes. Strain and drink. Faster onset, easier taste for many people.

Lemon tek

Soak chopped truffles in fresh lemon juice for 20 minutes before eating. Faster onset, potentially more intense effects at the same dose.

Use with caution — can significantly amplify effects.

Frequently Asked Questions

Wait at least 90 minutes before concluding nothing is happening. Onset varies. Redosing too early is one of the most common reasons people have an unexpectedly intense experience.

Yes. Fresh truffles should be stored in the fridge and used within their use-by date. The longer they're stored, the more psilocybin may degrade — especially if they dry out.

Yes — psilocybin tolerance builds quickly and is cross-tolerant with LSD and other psychedelics. Most experienced users wait at least 2 weeks between full experiences.

Change your environment — go outside if you're inside, or move to a smaller, calmer room. Lie down, close your eyes, and focus on slow breathing. Remind yourself that the effects are temporary and will pass. Having a sober, calm person nearby makes a significant difference.

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Magic Truffles Magic Truffles Dosage Guide Dosage is the most important decision you’ll make with magic truffles. Too little and the experience is barely noticeable. Too much and it can be overwhelming — especially for a first experience. Before You Read the Numbers 1. Set and setting. Your mindset going in and the environment around […]

Magic Truffles

Legality is the first question most people ask. It's a fair one — and the answer varies significantly depending on where you are in Europe.

The Netherlands: Legal

Magic truffles are legal to sell, buy, and possess in the Netherlands.

This legal status came about through a specific gap in Dutch drug legislation. When the Netherlands updated its drug laws in 2008 to prohibit magic mushrooms, sclerotia — the underground storage structures commonly called truffles — were not explicitly included. They remain legal and are sold openly in smart shops and online.

Cloud920 is based in the Netherlands. We sell magic truffles legally and ship within Europe.

The Rest of Europe: It Varies

The legal status of magic truffles across Europe is not uniform. Psilocybin itself is a controlled substance in most European countries — but whether truffles are treated the same as mushrooms or occupy a separate legal category depends on each country's specific legislation.

Country Status
Netherlands Legal
Spain Tolerated
Portugal Decriminalised
Czech Republic Decriminalised
Germany Illegal
France Illegal
Belgium Illegal
Italy Illegal
UK Illegal
Austria Illegal
Switzerland Illegal

This table reflects our best understanding of the legal landscape at the time of writing. Laws change. Always verify current legal status in your country before purchasing.

What About Shipping?

We ship from the Netherlands across Europe. Whether it is legal to receive magic truffles in your country is your responsibility to verify.

In countries where truffles are not clearly legal, we recommend checking current local law before placing an order. We are transparent about what we sell — and we believe you should be informed about what you're ordering and receiving.

What About Growing Psilocybin Mushrooms?

The legal status of growing psilocybin mushrooms varies by country and often depends on whether the activity is considered "production" of a controlled substance.

Spores and liquid cultures of psilocybin species occupy a further legal nuance — spores contain no psilocybin themselves and are legal in many jurisdictions for microscopy purposes. Once spores germinate and mycelium develops, the resulting organism may contain psilocybin and could be considered controlled.

Our sterilised spawn bags contain no mycelium or psilocybin — they are legal to ship anywhere. What you choose to cultivate with them is your responsibility.

The Direction of Travel

The legal landscape around psilocybin is shifting across Europe. Clinical research is accelerating. Several countries are actively reviewing their approach to psychedelic-assisted therapy. The trajectory — while slow — is toward greater tolerance and, in some contexts, legalisation for therapeutic use.

We follow these developments closely. Our position has always been clear: honesty, quality, and supporting people on their journey responsibly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Not in the Netherlands — that's the specific legal distinction that makes truffles legal here. In most other European countries, both are treated as containing a controlled substance and are regulated accordingly.

We ship across Europe. Whether it is legal to receive truffles in your country is something you need to verify yourself. We are transparent about what we sell.

In most European countries, spores themselves are not controlled (they contain no psilocybin). Liquid cultures contain active mycelium and may be considered differently. Verify your local laws.

Microdosing with magic truffles is legal in the Netherlands. In other countries, the legal status depends on whether psilocybin and psilocin are controlled substances — which they are in most European jurisdictions.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute legal advice. Drug laws change. Always verify the current legal status of psilocybin-containing products in your country before purchasing or possessing them.

Browse Magic Truffles — Legal in the Netherlands

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Magic Truffles Are Magic Truffles Legal in Europe? Legality is the first question most people ask. It’s a fair one — and the answer varies significantly depending on where you are in Europe. The Netherlands: Legal ✓ Magic truffles are legal to sell, buy, and possess in the Netherlands. This legal status came about through […]

Magic Truffles

Magic truffles and magic mushrooms come from the same family of fungi and contain the same active compound — psilocybin. But they're not the same thing, and the differences matter depending on what you're looking for.

Here's a plain explanation of what sets them apart.

What They Actually Are

Magic Mushrooms

The fruiting bodies of psilocybin-containing fungi — the part of the fungus that grows above (or near) ground and produces spores. When people refer to "magic mushrooms," they usually mean the dried caps and stems of species like Psilocybe cubensis.

Magic Truffles

Also called sclerotia — dense, compact masses of mycelium that form underground as an energy reserve. Not all psilocybin species produce them, but species like Psilocybe tampanensis and Psilocybe mexicana do. The truffle is the fungus storing nutrients underground, not fruiting.

Same organism. Same psilocybin. Different biological structure and different part of the growth cycle.

Are the Effects the Same?

Largely yes — both produce effects through psilocybin, which the body converts to psilocin after ingestion. The core experience is the same: altered perception, emotional depth, visual changes, and a shift in sense of self.

The differences tend to be in onset and intensity.

Magic Truffles Magic Mushrooms
Active compound Psilocybin + psilocin Psilocybin
Onset 30–60 minutes 30–60 minutes
Duration 4–6 hours 4–6 hours
Potency Varies by species; generally milder than dried mushrooms Varies by strain; generally more potent gram-for-gram
Consistency Fresh truffles: very consistent Dried mushrooms: variable by strain and batch

Truffles contain both psilocybin and psilocin — psilocin is the active form, meaning truffles can feel like they take effect slightly faster. The overall experience is similar to mushrooms, though many users describe truffle experiences as slightly smoother or more manageable at equivalent doses.

Potency: Gram for Gram

Fresh truffles are less potent gram-for-gram than dried mushrooms — primarily because fresh truffles contain a lot of water. Most truffles are 70–80% water by weight.

When comparing on a dry-weight basis, truffles and mushrooms from the same potency tier are broadly comparable. A standard fresh truffle dose (typically 5–15g) is roughly equivalent to 1–2g of dried mushrooms. This makes truffles easier to dose precisely — especially for beginners.

Legality: Where They Differ Most

Magic Mushrooms

Illegal in most European countries, including the Netherlands. Dried Psilocybe cubensis mushrooms are prohibited.

Magic Truffles

Legal to sell, buy, and possess in the Netherlands. When Dutch law was updated in 2008 to prohibit magic mushrooms, sclerotia were not explicitly included.

For growers in other European countries, the legal status of truffles varies. Check the laws in your country before purchasing. → Are Magic Truffles Legal in Europe?

Which Should You Choose?

Choose Magic Truffles if…

  • You're in the Netherlands or a country where truffles are legal
  • You want a consistent, measurable dose — especially for a first experience
  • You're interested in microdosing
  • You want a ready-to-use product with no preparation required

Grow Your Own Mushrooms if…

  • You're comfortable with home cultivation
  • You want access to a wider range of strains and potency levels
  • You're growing for personal use in a country where cultivation is tolerated
  • You want the experience and satisfaction of growing from start to finish

Frequently Asked Questions

Different texture, similar earthy taste. Truffles are denser and chewier than dried mushrooms. The taste is earthy and bitter — most people chew them thoroughly or make a tea. The smell is distinctly fungal but not identical to dried mushrooms.

Yes — truffles are one of the best formats for microdosing. Their consistent potency and measurable weight make it straightforward to establish a reliable low dose. See: Beginner's Guide to Microdosing Psilocybin.

Fresh truffles are less potent gram-for-gram than dried mushrooms because of water content. On a dry-weight basis, they're broadly comparable. The key difference is that truffles are sold fresh (consistent water content) while mushrooms are typically sold dried.

Some species produce truffles under the right conditions — P. mexicana and P. tampanensis are the most reliable. Our Jalisco liquid culture (P. mexicana) can produce sclerotia under the right conditions.

At equivalent doses, most users report similar visual effects. Strain and potency matter more than the truffle/mushroom distinction. Higher-potency mushroom strains will produce stronger visuals than a low-dose truffle experience.

Ready to explore?

Browse magic truffles ready to use, or grow your own mushrooms from premium liquid culture genetics.

Magic Truffles Magic Truffles vs Magic Mushrooms: What’s the Difference? Magic truffles and magic mushrooms come from the same family of fungi and contain the same active compound — psilocybin. But they’re not the same thing, and the differences matter depending on what you’re looking for. Here’s a plain explanation of what sets them apart. […]

Troubleshooting

You inoculated your spawn bag, placed it somewhere warm, and now you're waiting. Days pass. Nothing happens — or something unexpected appears. This guide covers the most common reasons a spawn bag fails to colonise, how to tell what's going wrong, and what to do about it.

By Cloud920 Mycologist

Updated 12 April 2026

6 min read

First: How Long Should You Actually Wait?

Before troubleshooting, check your expectations against realistic timelines. If you're within these windows, the bag may simply need more time — spores in particular take longer to germinate.

Inoculation method First signs of mycelium Full colonisation
Liquid culture (millet) 5–10 days 2–3 weeks
Liquid culture (corn) 7–14 days 3–4 weeks
Spore syringe (millet) 10–21 days 3–5 weeks
Spore syringe (corn) 14–21 days 4–6 weeks

If you're well outside these windows and seeing nothing, read on.

The 6 Most Common Causes

1

Temperature Is Too Low

Most common

Symptoms

Very slow colonisation or no visible growth at all, but no signs of contamination.

Mycelium is sensitive to temperature. Below 18°C (65°F), colonisation slows dramatically. Below 15°C, it may stop entirely.

Fix

Move the bag to a warmer location. Most cubensis and gourmet species colonise best at 21–26°C (70–79°F). A heat mat with a thermostat is the most reliable solution for cool homes — especially in winter. Use a folded towel as a buffer between the bag and the mat to prevent hot spots at the base.

2

Contamination

Symptoms

Green, black, pink, or yellow patches appearing in the bag. Sometimes a sour or musty smell.

Contamination is the most common reason grows fail — and the most important to act on quickly. Mould (most often Trichoderma, which appears green) competes aggressively with mycelium and usually wins once it takes hold.

How to tell contamination from healthy mycelium


Healthy mycelium is bright white and fluffy

Contamination is usually coloured (green, black, yellow, pink) or has a wet, slimy appearance
~
Yellow or brown metabolites secreted by mycelium are normal — don't confuse these with contamination

Fix

Remove the bag from your grow space immediately. Seal it in a bin bag before disposal — don't open it indoors, as mould spores will spread. Do not try to cut out the contaminated section and continue — it's rarely worth it.

Prevent it next time

  • • Work in a cleaner environment (still air box, wiped-down surfaces)
  • • Flame sterilise your needle and clean the injection port properly before inoculating
  • • Use liquid culture instead of spores — faster colonisation leaves less window for contamination
  • • Check your substrate wasn't compromised before inoculation

3

Poor Inoculation Technique

Symptoms

No growth at all, even after several weeks, with no visible contamination.

If the inoculation didn't deliver viable mycelium or spores into the substrate, colonisation simply won't start. Common mistakes:


Not flame sterilising the needle — kills the liquid culture or contaminates the bag

Wiping the needle after flaming — reintroduces contamination

Not shaking the liquid culture syringe — mycelium settles at the bottom; unshaken syringes may inject mostly water

Injecting into the wrong spot — the needle should go through the injection port, not the bag wall

Fix

Review the How to Inoculate a Spawn Bag guide and check your technique against each step. When in doubt, inoculate a second bag using a fresh needle and careful technique.

4

The Liquid Culture or Spores Weren't Viable

Symptoms

No colonisation despite correct technique and good temperature. No contamination visible.

Liquid culture and spore syringes can lose viability over time, especially if stored incorrectly. Signs your liquid culture may not be viable:

  • Completely clear with no visible mycelium clumps
  • Stored at room temperature for several months
  • Exposed to heat or direct sunlight

Fix

Check the storage conditions and age of your culture. Fresh liquid culture stored in the fridge at 4–6°C remains viable for 2–3 months. If yours is old or was stored poorly, the culture may be dead. If you suspect a quality issue with a Cloud920 product, contact us — we stand behind what we sell and will help you work out what happened.

5

The Substrate Was Too Wet or Too Dry

Symptoms

Slow, uneven colonisation, or contamination appearing early.

Substrate moisture affects how well mycelium can travel through the bag. Too wet creates anaerobic conditions that slow mycelium and encourage contamination. Too dry, and mycelium can't move through the substrate efficiently.

Fix

If you're using a pre-sterilised bag from Cloud920, moisture is handled for you — every bag is hydrated to the correct field capacity before it's sealed. If you're making your own substrate, use the squeeze test: a handful should release a few drops of water when squeezed hard, not a stream.

6

The Bag Was Compromised Before Inoculation

Symptoms

Contamination appears very early — within days of inoculation — or in areas far from the injection point.

If contamination appears faster than mycelium could have introduced it, the bag may have been contaminated before you inoculated it — from a manufacturing issue or transit damage (a small puncture, compromised seal).

Fix

Inspect bags carefully before inoculating. If you notice any damage to the seal or filter, or if the bag looks wet or discoloured before you've touched it, don't use it. Contact us and we'll sort it out.

Quick Diagnosis Guide

What you see Most likely cause Action
Nothing after 2–3 weeks, no contamination Temperature too low Warm up the bag
Nothing after 3+ weeks, good temperature Failed inoculation or dead culture Re-inoculate with fresh culture
Green, black, or pink patches Contamination Remove from grow space, dispose
Yellow or brown liquid pooling Normal metabolite secretion Leave it — this is fine
Slow, patchy white growth Temperature low or substrate issues Raise temp, do break and shake
White and fluffy spreading evenly Healthy colonisation ✓ You're on track — keep waiting

When to Reach Out

If you've worked through this guide and still can't work out what's happening, we're here. Take a clear photo of the bag — hold it up to a light source for the best view — and send it to our support team. We've seen most things that can go wrong in a grow.

Our support is personal, fast, and honest. We'll tell you straight whether the bag is salvageable or whether it's time to start fresh.

Frequently Asked Questions

Yellow or brown discolouration is often metabolite secretion — a normal response to stress or environmental changes. It's not contamination. True contamination is usually green, black, pink, or has a slimy texture. If in doubt, send us a photo.

Rarely. Once contamination is established, it almost always outcompetes mycelium. The safest approach is to remove and dispose of the bag immediately to protect your other grows. Starting fresh with a clean bag is faster than trying to rescue a contaminated one.

A break and shake at 30–40% colonisation often restarts stalled growth. Also check temperature — a drop in ambient temperature is the most common reason for a grow to stall partway through.

The entire substrate should be covered in white mycelium with no brown or uncolonised patches visible. Grain bags will feel firm and solid when you squeeze them. For CVG bags, the entire surface should be white.

It happens — even experienced growers have failed runs. Contact us with details of your setup (temperature, inoculation method, substrate, storage) and we'll help work out what went wrong. If the issue was with our product, we'll make it right.

Start Your Next Grow Right

A failed grow usually comes down to one of three things: temperature, technique, or substrate quality. Our bags handle the substrate side — every bag is prepared and tested by our mycologist before it ships.

Home / Learn / Why Is My Spawn Bag Not Colonising? Troubleshooting Why Is My Spawn Bag Not Colonising? You inoculated your spawn bag, placed it somewhere warm, and now you’re waiting. Days pass. Nothing happens — or something unexpected appears. This guide covers the most common reasons a spawn bag fails to colonise, how […]

Grow Guide

Millet colonises faster. Corn produces denser mycelium. Here's how to choose the right grain spawn for your mushroom grow.



Written by the Cloud920 mycologist



Last updated: April 2026



5 min read

Millet and corn are the two most popular grain substrates in mushroom cultivation — and both work well. The difference comes down to what you're prioritising: speed or density.

Here's a straight answer before we go deeper: if it's your first grain bag, start with millet. It colonises faster, gives you quicker feedback, and is more forgiving. If you've grown on grain before and want heavier yields, try corn.

The Key Differences

Millet Corn
Colonisation speed Fast (2–3 weeks) Moderate (3–4 weeks)
Mycelium density Good Dense and robust
Kernel size Small Large
Surface area High Lower
Flushes Multiple Multiple — often heavier
Best for Beginners, fast turnaround Experienced growers, yield focus
Works with All grain-colonising species All grain-colonising species

Millet: Fast Colonisation, Great for Beginners

Millet's small kernel size is its biggest advantage. More kernels per bag means more surface area — and more surface area means mycelium has more places to take hold when you inoculate. The result is faster, more even colonisation across the bag.

For a first-time grower, that speed matters. Seeing white mycelium spreading through your bag within 5–10 days is reassuring. It tells you the inoculation worked, your environment is right, and your grow is on track. Waiting four weeks for the same feedback on a slower substrate is harder on the nerves.

Millet is also slightly more forgiving if your temperature fluctuates or your inoculation technique isn't perfect yet. The fast colonisation gives contamination less time to take hold before mycelium covers the substrate.

"These bags colonize quick!! I couldn't believe how fast it was."

— Al Kilmer, Cloud920 customer

Choose millet if:


  • It's your first grain bag

  • You want the fastest possible colonisation

  • You're running multiple bags and want quick turnaround

  • You're testing a new liquid culture and want fast confirmation it's viable

Corn: Denser Mycelium, Heavier Harvests

Corn kernels are larger — which means fewer of them per bag and less surface area overall. Colonisation takes a bit longer. But what you get in return is denser, more robust mycelium that packs more nutrition into every gram of colonised grain.

When you break up a colonised corn bag and mix it into your bulk substrate, that dense mycelium translates into stronger, more vigorous fruiting. Growers who switch to corn often notice thicker pins, beefier fruits, and flushes that keep coming.

"Quick colonisation, lots of nutrients for your sub for thick, beefy fruits and multiple flushes."

— Al Hunter, verified Cloud920 buyer

Choose corn if:


  • You've grown on grain before and want to improve your yields

  • You want denser mycelium for a more robust fruiting block

  • You're happy to wait an extra week for colonisation

  • You're growing a species that benefits from a nutrient-rich spawn

Can You Use Both Together?

Yes — and some growers do. Colonising a millet bag first (for speed) then using it to inoculate a corn bag (for density) is a valid approach, though it adds a step most home growers don't need. For most grows, picking one and sticking with it is simpler and produces great results.

Which Species Work Best on Each?

Both millet and corn work with any species that colonises grain — including Psilocybe cubensis, lion's mane, oyster, shiitake, and most other gourmet and medicinal varieties. The choice between them is about technique preference and grow goals, not species compatibility.

The one exception: wood-loving species (P. azurescens, P. cyanescens, king oyster) don't thrive on grain alone and need a hardwood-based substrate to fruit properly.

What About CVG?

CVG (coco coir, vermiculite, and gypsum) is a different type of substrate altogether — it's a bulk fruiting substrate, not a grain spawn. Grain bags (millet or corn) are used to colonise mycelium, which is then mixed into CVG to create a fruiting block.

If you're doing a two-bag grow — grain spawn + bulk substrate — you'll need both.

Frequently Asked Questions

Millet. It colonises faster, which means quicker confirmation your inoculation worked and less time for contamination to develop. Corn is a great next step once you've got a successful grow under your belt.

Many growers report heavier flushes from corn-based grows due to the denser, more nutrient-rich mycelium. The difference isn't dramatic but it's noticeable — especially on the second and third flush.

Yes, but liquid culture is faster and more reliable. Spores need to germinate before mycelium can develop — that adds time and a variable. Liquid culture contains active mycelium and gets to work immediately. Browse our liquid cultures if you don't have one yet.

At 21–26°C with liquid culture, most millet bags are fully colonised in 2–3 weeks. A break and shake at 30% colonisation speeds this up significantly.

Typically 3–4 weeks at 21–26°C with liquid culture. Slightly slower than millet, but the wait is worth it for the denser mycelium you get in return.

Our bags come as single-substrate bags to keep conditions consistent and quality predictable. Mixing substrates at home is possible but introduces variability — a single substrate gives you cleaner results and easier troubleshooting if something goes wrong.

Ready to choose?

Both bags. Prepared by our mycologist.

Organic A-class grain, pressure-sterilised, tested for contamination, sealed with a self-healing injection port. Ships fast across Europe from the Netherlands.

Grow Guide Millet vs Corn Grain Spawn: Which Should You Use? Millet colonises faster. Corn produces denser mycelium. Here’s how to choose the right grain spawn for your mushroom grow. Written by the Cloud920 mycologist Last updated: April 2026 5 min read Millet and corn are the two most popular grain substrates in mushroom cultivation […]

Substrate Guide

CVG — coco coir, vermiculite, and gypsum — is the most popular bulk substrate for home mushroom cultivation. Here's what each ingredient does and how to use it.



Written by the Cloud920 mycologist



Last updated: April 2026



5 min read

CVG stands for coco coir, vermiculite, and gypsum. It's the most widely used bulk substrate for home mushroom cultivation — and for good reason. It holds moisture well, stays airy, and creates the ideal environment for mycelium to colonise and fruit.

If you've seen growers mention CVG on Reddit or in grow guides, this is what they're talking about. Here's everything you need to know.

What Each Ingredient Does

C — Coco Coir

Fibrous coconut husk material. Holds moisture exceptionally well while staying light and airy. Naturally resistant to mould — which helps keep contamination at bay.

V — Vermiculite

Expanded mineral that improves air circulation and drainage. Keeps the substrate from compacting too tightly, which would restrict oxygen flow to your mycelium.

G — Gypsum

Calcium sulphate that balances the pH and prevents the substrate from clumping. A small amount goes a long way — keeps the texture loose and workable.

Together, the three create a substrate with the right balance of moisture, aeration, and pH for strong, even mycelium colonisation and healthy fruiting.

CVG vs Grain Spawn: What's the Difference?

This is a common point of confusion for new growers. Think of it this way: grain spawn is the starter, CVG is the main course.

Grain Spawn (Millet / Corn) CVG Substrate
Purpose Colonise mycelium Fruit mushrooms
When you use it First — inoculate here Second — mix spawn into this
Inoculation Inject liquid culture or spores No — receives colonised grain
End result Colonised grain (spawn) Fruiting block

How to Use CVG Substrate

Option 1 — Two-bag method (recommended)

Most common

1
Inoculate your grain bag — inject liquid culture or spores through the injection port
2
Wait for full colonisation — 2–4 weeks depending on grain type and temperature
3
Mix spawn into CVG — break up the colonised grain and mix into your CVG bag at roughly 1 part grain to 2–3 parts CVG
4
Wait for colonisation — mycelium spreads from grain into CVG over 1–2 weeks
5
Fruit — once fully colonised, introduce fruiting conditions (fresh air, light, humidity) and harvest

Option 2 — Direct inoculation into CVG

You can inoculate CVG directly with liquid culture, skipping the grain bag step. This works, but colonisation is slower and less even than using grain spawn. Most growers use the two-bag method for better results.

Option 3 — Pre-sterilised CVG bag (the easy way)

Our pre-sterilised CVG substrate bags come ready to use — hydrated to the right field capacity, sterilised, and sealed. You just add your colonised grain spawn or liquid culture and go.

What Species Grow Well on CVG?

Works great


  • Psilocybe cubensis varieties

  • Oyster mushrooms, button mushrooms

  • Turkey tail and some reishi preparations

Not ideal


  • P. azurescens, P. cyanescens

  • King oyster, lion's mane
  • These need a hardwood-based substrate to thrive.

The Right Moisture Level

The biggest mistake new growers make with CVG is getting the moisture level wrong. Too wet and the substrate becomes anaerobic — a breeding ground for contamination. Too dry and mycelium won't colonise properly.

The squeeze test: Grab a handful of CVG and squeeze it in your fist. A few drops should come out — that's the right moisture level. A stream means too wet. Nothing means too dry.

If you're using our pre-sterilised CVG bags, this is already handled for you — every bag is hydrated to the correct field capacity before it's sealed.

Frequently Asked Questions

CVG made with coco coir is naturally resistant enough that many growers pasteurise rather than fully sterilise it. That said, a pre-sterilised bag removes the risk entirely — no equipment, no guesswork. Our CVG substrate bags are fully sterilised and ready to use.

A common ratio is 1 part colonised grain to 2–3 parts CVG by volume. More spawn speeds up colonisation. Some growers go as high as 1:1 for very fast results.

Not recommended. After a full grow cycle the substrate is depleted and more vulnerable to contamination. Starting with fresh substrate each grow gives you the best results and the cleanest environment.

Typically 7–14 days at 21–26°C. You'll see white mycelium spreading through the substrate. Once the surface is fully white, it's ready to fruit.

Yes — you can inoculate CVG directly with liquid culture. It works, but colonisation is slower and patchier than using grain spawn first. The two-bag method consistently produces better results.

Field capacity is the moisture level at which a substrate holds as much water as possible without excess runoff — like soil after rainfall has drained away. It's the sweet point for mushroom cultivation: wet enough for mycelium to thrive, dry enough to prevent anaerobic conditions.

Ready to grow?

Pre-sterilised CVG. No prep needed.

Hydrated to field capacity, sterilised, tested, and sealed with an injection port. Ships fast across Europe from the Netherlands.

Substrate Guide What Is CVG Substrate (And How to Use It)? CVG — coco coir, vermiculite, and gypsum — is the most popular bulk substrate for home mushroom cultivation. Here’s what each ingredient does and how to use it. Written by the Cloud920 mycologist Last updated: April 2026 5 min read CVG stands for coco […]

Grow Guide

How to inject your spawn bag cleanly — and what to do from that moment until full colonisation. This guide focuses on what happens after the needle goes in.



Written by the Cloud920 mycologist



Last updated: April 2026



7 min read

If you're using a Cloud920 sterile spawn bag, the substrate is already sterilised and the injection port is in place. Your job is to add the culture cleanly and then manage the bag until it's ready for fruiting.

The inoculation itself takes less than two minutes. What comes after — temperature, timing, break and shake, reading the bag — is what most growers get wrong the first time. That's what this guide is really about.

What You Need


  • A sterilised spawn bag with injection port

  • A liquid culture syringe or spore syringe

  • 70% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and paper towels or cotton swabs

  • A lighter

  • A clean, still environment (still air box ideal, clean counter sufficient)

No laminar flow hood. No pressure cooker. The injection port handles sterilisation at the entry point.

The Inoculation: Quick Reference

The steps below cover everything you need for a clean inject. If you want more detail on technique — what good liquid culture looks like, how much to use, how to split a syringe across bags — read the full How to Use Liquid Culture guide.

1

Prepare your space

Close windows, turn off fans, let the air settle for 10–15 minutes. Wipe your work surface with IPA.

2

Flame the needle, wipe the port

Heat the needle until it glows red. Cool 10–15 seconds — don't wipe it. Then clean the injection port with IPA and let it dry.

3

Inject slowly through the port

Liquid culture

3–5ml per bag. Shake the syringe first to distribute the mycelium.

Spore syringe

2–3ml per bag. Expect a slower start — spores need to germinate first.

4

Remove, seal, label

Pull the needle out — the silicone port self-seals. Write the strain name and date on the bag. Don't shake or move it for the first hour.

After Inoculation: Managing Your Bag to Full Colonisation

Temperature — the single most important variable

Place the bag in a warm, dark location. Temperature controls everything — colonisation speed, contamination risk, and mycelium vigour. Too cold and growth stalls. Too warm and contamination takes hold.

Species type Ideal colonisation temp
Psilocybe cubensis varieties 21–26°C (70–79°F)
Panaeolus cyanescens (Jamaica) 24–28°C (75–82°F)
Lion's Mane, Reishi 18–22°C (65–72°F)
Below 18°C (any species) Colonisation slows or stalls

A heat mat with a thermostat is the most reliable solution if your home runs below 20°C — especially in winter. Use a folded towel as a buffer between the mat and the bag.

What to expect, day by day

Colonisation timelines vary by substrate, temperature, and inoculation method. Use this as a guide, not a deadline.

Days 1–5

Nothing visible. Mycelium is establishing itself at the injection site. Don't disturb the bag. Some condensation on the inside of the bag is completely normal.

Days 5–14

First signs of white, fluffy growth appear around the inoculation point. Healthy mycelium is bright white and slightly fuzzy — not flat or slimy. Liquid culture shows first signs earlier than spores.

Days 14–28

Mycelium spreads across the substrate. At around 30% coverage, do a break and shake (grain bags only — see below). Full colonisation follows within 1–2 weeks of the break and shake.

Complete

The entire substrate is covered in white mycelium, no brown patches visible. Grain bags feel firm and solid when squeezed. CVG bags are fully white throughout.

Break and shake

Grain bags only

The break and shake is the single most effective thing you can do to speed up colonisation. Done at the right time, it can cut days off your colonisation period.

When

When 25–35% of the bag is white. Don't wait for 50% — early is better.

How

Gently massage the outside of the bag to break up the colonised grain and redistribute it throughout the uncolonised grain.

After

The bag will look disrupted for 1–2 days, then recover quickly. Full colonisation typically follows within 5–10 days.

"These bags colonize quick!! I did a BnS a week after inoculating and it bounced back and fully colonized within 3/4 days. I couldn't believe how fast it was."

— Al Kilmer, Cloud920 customer

CVG bags don't need a break and shake — the mycelium spreads through the substrate differently. Leave CVG bags undisturbed until full colonisation.

Reading your bag — normal vs not normal

Most growers who contact us worried about their bag are looking at something completely normal. Here's the quick reference.

Bright white, fluffy growth

Healthy mycelium. Exactly what you want.

Yellow or brown liquid pooling

Metabolite secretion — a normal stress response. Not contamination. Leave it.

Blue bruising on the mycelium

Oxidation of psilocybin when the bag is handled. Normal and expected with cubensis.

Condensation on the inside of the bag

Normal, especially in the first week. The bag is breathing.

~

Very slow growth, no contamination

Almost always temperature. Check your thermometer and warm up the bag before assuming anything else is wrong.

Green, black, or pink patches

Contamination. Remove the bag from your grow space immediately, seal it in a bin bag, and dispose of it without opening indoors.

Slimy or wet texture with unusual colour

Bacterial contamination. Same action — remove immediately. Don't open indoors.

Not sure what you're looking at? Take a photo of the bag held up to a light source and send it to us. We'll tell you straight.

Colonisation complete — what's next

A fully colonised bag is white throughout with no brown substrate visible. What you do next depends on which bag type you used:

Millet or corn grain bags

Mix the colonised grain into a bulk fruiting substrate — typically a CVG bag. The colonised grain acts as spawn. Use a 1:3 ratio (one part grain to three parts CVG).

What is CVG substrate? →

CVG substrate bags

Initiate fruiting directly. Move the bag to fruiting conditions — lower temperature, fresh air exchange, and indirect light. Pins should appear within 1–2 weeks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. A still air box reduces contamination risk but isn't essential, especially with liquid culture. Work in a clean, still environment, move deliberately, and avoid breathing directly over the syringe and port. Most beginner growers inoculate without one successfully.

Typically 2–4 weeks for a grain bag at the right temperature. Liquid culture colonises faster than spores. Millet is faster than corn. With a break and shake at 30%, the final stretch is much quicker — many growers see full colonisation within 5–10 days of the BnS.

Yes — condensation on the inside of the bag in the first few days is completely normal. The substrate is breathing. Mycelium typically becomes visible after 5–14 days depending on temperature and inoculation method.

One is usually enough and most efficient. A second BnS can be done if colonisation stalls after the first — but at that point it's worth also checking temperature, as a stall mid-colonisation is usually a heat issue.

Green patches are Trichoderma — the most common mould contaminant. Remove the bag from your grow space immediately. Seal it in a bin bag before disposal and don't open it indoors. Once Trichoderma is established it almost always outcompetes mycelium — there's no reliable way to save the bag.

The entire substrate should be white with no brown patches visible. Grain bags should feel firm and solid when you squeeze them — loose grain means uncolonised sections remain. Give it another few days if in doubt. A bag that's 95% colonised is not ready. Wait for 100%.

Ready to start your grow?

Sterilised, tested, and ready to inoculate.

Our spawn bags are prepared in-house by an experienced mycologist using organic, A-class ingredients — sealed with an injection port before they leave our lab. Ships fast across Europe from the Netherlands.

Grow Guide How to Inoculate a Spawn Bag (Step-by-Step) How to inject your spawn bag cleanly — and what to do from that moment until full colonisation. This guide focuses on what happens after the needle goes in. Written by the Cloud920 mycologist Last updated: April 2026 7 min read If you’re using a Cloud920 […]

Reference

A reference for every strain in our catalogue. Use this to compare growing characteristics, understand what makes each strain distinct, and find the right genetics for your grow. Strains are organised by series. Not sure which series to start with? Read How to Choose Your First Liquid Culture first.

By Cloud920 Mycologist

Updated 12 April 2026

10 min read

Wild Origin

Nature's Pure Foundation

Wild Origin strains carry unmodified genetics that have evolved over millions of years without human selection. Expect natural variability — each flush reflects the authentic character of its geographic origin.

Cambodia

P. cubensis

One of the most widely distributed wild cubensis strains. Fast colonisation and reliable fruiting across a range of conditions — a solid introduction to Wild Origin genetics, authentic without being unpredictable.

Colonisation: Fast
Medium fruits
Good for Wild Origin beginners

PES Amazon

P. cubensis

Collected from the Amazon basin. Produces large, vigorous fruits and colonises strongly. The size and density of its flushes make it a favourite among growers who want impressive results from wild genetics.

Colonisation: Moderate–Fast
Large fruits
Good for size + wild genetics

Mexican

P. cubensis

One of the original cubensis strains, with a history of ceremonial use stretching back centuries. Medium-sized fruits, steady colonisation, and genetics with genuine historical depth.

Colonisation: Moderate
Steady, consistent
Historically significant genetics

Blue Magnolia

P. cubensis

Originally isolated from the southern United States. Known for dense, clustered fruiting and strong blue bruising — a visual indicator of psilocybin content. Distinctive wild character.

Colonisation: Moderate
Dense clusters
Heavy bruising, striking visual

Cascadian Teacher

P. cubensis

A Pacific Northwest wild isolate with a connection to the Golden Teacher lineage. Combines the reliability of Teacher-type genetics with natural variability. Strong coloniser, above-average yields.

Colonisation: Fast
Generous yields
Wild genetics + Heritage reliability

Popocatépetl

P. zapotecorum

Not a cubensis — a distinct species collected near the Popocatépetl volcano in Mexico. Requires hardwood or enriched substrate rather than grain alone. For growers ready to explore beyond cubensis.

Colonisation: Moderate
Hardwood substrate
Experienced growers

Jalisco

P. mexicana

The species historically associated with Mazatec ceremonial use. Smaller fruiting bodies than cubensis but a unique growing character and deep cultural history. Can produce sclerotia (truffles) under the right conditions.

Colonisation: Moderate
Smaller fruits + truffles
Cultural history, non-cubensis

Jamaica

Panaeolus cyanescens

A completely different genus from Psilocybe. Requires dung-enriched or manure-based substrate. Notably potent for its size. For experienced growers ready to work with a different genus entirely.

Colonisation: Moderate
Dung-enriched substrate
Experienced growers

True Natalensis

P. natalensis

Collected from South Africa — one of the most distinctive wild species in the catalogue. Large, robust fruiting bodies with a unique visual character. Colonises well on grain and fruits readily under standard conditions, making it more accessible than other wild species.

Colonisation: Moderate–Fast
Large, distinctive fruits
Non-cubensis that behaves like cubensis

Heritage Series

Human-Selected Excellence

Heritage strains have been refined through decades of selective cultivation. More consistent, higher-yielding, and more forgiving than wild strains. The right choice when reliability matters.

B+

P. cubensis

One of the most popular strains in home cultivation — and for good reason. Exceptionally forgiving, colonises fast, and produces large, caramel-capped fruits with reliable yields. If you're not sure what to order for your first grow, B+ is rarely the wrong answer.

Colonisation: Fast
Large fruits, prolific
Ideal for first grows

McKennaii

P. cubensis

Named after ethnobotanist Terence McKenna. Known for above-average potency within the cubensis family, philosophical depth, and a devoted following among experienced growers. Colonises reliably and fruits steadily.

Colonisation: Moderate–Fast
Steady yields
Step up in potency

Golden Teacher

P. cubensis

The most widely grown cubensis strain in the world. Earned its reputation through decades of consistent performance — reliable colonisation, forgiving growth, and golden-capped fruits that fruit readily under almost any conditions. The definitive beginner strain.

Colonisation: Fast
Reliable, consistent
Ideal for first grows

PE7 (Penis Envy)

P. cubensis

The Heritage lineage of the legendary PE genetics. Carries the high-potency characteristics of the PE family while being more approachable than Hybrid Fusion PE variants. Slower colonisation — patience rewarded with exceptional results.

Colonisation: Slow–Moderate
Dense, thick fruits
High potency Heritage

Hillbilly Pumpkin

P. cubensis

A prolific fruiter known for its distinctive pumpkin-shaped caps and aggressive pinning. Colonises fast and throws large flushes reliably — one of the highest-yielding Heritage strains in the catalogue.

Colonisation: Fast
Very prolific, heavy flushes
Maximum Heritage yield

OG APE

P. cubensis

The original Albino Penis Envy — legendary genetics in the cubensis world. Carries the full PE potency profile with a striking all-white albino phenotype. Slower to colonise than most strains, but the results are worth the patience.

Colonisation: Slow
Albino, exceptional potency
PE-level genetics

APE221

P. cubensis

A refined selection of the APE lineage — generations of selective pressure applied to OG APE genetics to produce a more consistent, higher-performing variant. Retains the potency and albino phenotype of the original with improved reliability.

Colonisation: Slow–Moderate
Albino, potent
APE genetics, better predictability

Hybrid Fusion

Laboratory Innovation

Hybrid Fusion strains are created in controlled laboratory environments by crossing distinct genetic lines. Unique characteristics, higher potency, and genetic innovation not found elsewhere.

Recommended for growers with at least one successful grow.

Yeti

P. cubensis

A sought-after albino hybrid known for its ghostly white appearance and high potency. Colonises more slowly than Heritage strains but rewards patience with striking fruits and exceptional results.

Colonisation: Slow–Moderate
Albino, highly potent
Albino Hybrid Fusion

Blue Ghost

P. cubensis

Dense blue colouration and a unique genetic profile set Blue Ghost apart from any other strain in the catalogue. Heavy bruising, distinctive appearance, and above-average potency.

Colonisation: Moderate
Heavy blue bruising
Distinctive visual character

Jack Frost

P. cubensis

An albino hybrid with exceptional potency and some of the most visually striking fruiting bodies in the range. Heavy bruising, dense fruits, and genetics that growers return to repeatedly.

Colonisation: Slow–Moderate
Albino, exceptional potency
Top-tier Hybrid Fusion

Jedi Mind Fuck Albino

P. cubensis

The albino variant of the already-potent JMF strain. One of the most intense genetics in the catalogue — exceptional potency, albino phenotype, and a reputation that precedes it in the cultivation community.

Colonisation: Slow
Albino, extreme potency
Very experienced growers only

Mac Galactic

P. cubensis

A cross involving MAC genetics — known for caramel-spotted caps, prolific fruiting, and above-average potency. More accessible than the albino Hybrid Fusion strains while still delivering innovation.

Colonisation: Moderate
Prolific, distinctive caps
Entry-level Hybrid Fusion

Yellow Umbo

P. ochraceocentrata × cubensis

An inter-species cross — the only strain in the catalogue to cross two distinct Psilocybe species. Yellow Umbo has a genuinely unique genetic profile and visual character. Experimental and fascinating.

Colonisation: Moderate
Unique inter-species character
Genetic exploration

Makilla Gorilla

P. cubensis

A large, aggressive fruiter in the Hybrid Fusion range. Known for its size and vigour — bigger-than-average fruits with the potency profile you'd expect from Hybrid Fusion genetics.

Colonisation: Moderate–Fast
Large, aggressive fruiting
Size + Hybrid potency

Shakti

P. cubensis

Dense clusters and high potency define Shakti. Strong, assertive fruiting and above-average intensity — named for the Hindu concept of divine feminine energy, and it lives up to the name.

Colonisation: Moderate
Dense clusters, high potency
Prolific Hybrid yields

Coffee Cream

P. cubensis

A Hybrid Fusion strain with a distinctive warm colouration and reliable fruiting character. One of the more accessible strains in the range — above-average potency without the extreme demands of the albino varieties.

Colonisation: Moderate
Distinctive appearance, reliable
Entry-level Hybrid Fusion

Vital Nature

Supporting Your Mind and Body

Medicinal mushrooms with centuries of traditional use. Legal everywhere. A different kind of growing experience.

Reishi

Ganoderma lucidum

One of the most studied and revered medicinal mushrooms in the world. Revered in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries. Valued for adaptogenic properties and rich concentration of beta-glucans and triterpenes. Grows on hardwood — slow-growing but deeply rewarding.

Colonisation: Slow
Hardwood logs or blocks
Adaptogenic support

Lion's Mane

Hericium erinaceus

Visually unlike any other mushroom — cascading white spines in a dense, rounded cluster. Increasingly studied for its potential to support cognitive function and nerve health through hericenones and erinacines. Fruits readily and produces beautiful, distinctive harvests.

Colonisation: Moderate
Hardwood-based blocks
Cognitive + nerve health

Ready to Choose?

Browse each series or use the choosing guide to narrow it down by experience level and goals.

Reference Cloud920 Strain Guide — Every Liquid Culture We Offer A reference for every strain in our catalogue. Use this to compare growing characteristics, understand what makes each strain distinct, and find the right genetics for your grow. Strains are organised by series. Not sure which series to start with? Read How to Choose Your […]